Sustainability is no longer simply a trend but a necessity, and designer Kinyan Lam is keeping this firmly in mind as he makes waves within the fashion industry. 

Skilfully intertwining traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, Lam is dedicated to preserving the rich cultural heritage of China, particularly through the artistry of the Dong people (侗族 Dòng zú) — an ethnic minority found across Southwest China, including in Guizhou province. His journey from the Chinese mainland to Hong Kong, and eventually to the fashion capitals of Europe, has shaped his vision and commitment to sustainable fashion.

Lam‘s background is as multifaceted as his designs. Born in Yunfu City, Guangdong province, he relocated to Hong Kong at the age of 10. Since then he has navigated various cultural landscapes, moving to the UK to undertake a Menswear MA Course at the London College of Fashion, and Germany, where he  interned at clothing and homeware manufacturer Esprit Holdings. This exposure to diverse cultures has enriched his perspective on fashion and sustainability. “I feel like I’m an octopus,” he explained earnestly as he reflected on his adaptability and connection to multiple environments. 

Yet, despite his global experiences, it is the memories of his childhood in a Guangdong village that resonated most deeply with him, eventually leading him to remote areas in another Chinese province. Guizhou, characterized by its mountainous landscapes and vibrant local culture, is home to a tapestry of ethnic minorities, including the Dong people. They celebrate their traditional crafts, namely the Dong cloth (侗布 Dòng bù), a cotton fabric which represents a heritage passed down through generations. The creation of Dong cloth involves weaving white fabric and immersing it in different natural dyes, mainly indigo.

Lam recognizes the urgency of preserving age-old techniques at risk of extinction due to modern, less labor-intensive alternatives. He believes we may be the last generation to appreciate the significance of the Dong cloth and other similar crafts.

Commenting on the disappearing craftsmanship in Guizhou, Lam emphasized the province’s untapped potential, stating that it holds treasures in traditional industries that are crucial to explore and preserve.

Though Lam is aware that he is not alone in this mission — he acknowledges that other designers, government initiatives, and cultural groups are also working to maintain these traditions — he feels a personal responsibility to lead the charge.

His latest collection, “I Was Once A Tree,” launched during Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025, embodies his commitment to sustainability and cultural storytelling. While indigo blue is the most well-known choice of dye for Dong cloth, this collection introduces different colors, such as green and red, to reflect the vibrancy of the natural world. Using soft, breathable, and sustainable fabrics, the designs embody the ease and joy of summer.

The collection’s name references the deep connection between people and trees, emphasizing that both are vessels of life. In his notes for the collection, Lam reflects on how around the world, from Madagascar to Guizhou, different cultures link trees to the human life cycle. 

For Lam, sustainability means creating high-quality products — clothing that can be cherished and passed down through generations. He reflected that, traditionally in China, women would make three garments for a child: one at birth, one for when they grew up, and one for their marriage. This perspective emphasizes the value of craftsmanship and an emotional connection with garments, sentiments that Lam is committed to reviving in his work.

Lam’s commitment to sustainability and cultural preservation has earned him accolades not only in the European fashion scene but also from the artisans he collaborates with in Guizhou. His efforts resonate deeply within the local community, including with Yang Chenglan (known as Lan Lan), the founder of textile brand Yi Shan Ren (倚山人). Deeply moved by how a young designer like Lam invests so much care into each piece, she admires his dedication to the craft of the Dong people and notes the profound thought he puts into every design, reflecting a deep understanding of their cultural significance.

The designer’s vision extends beyond fashion. Lam aims to showcase the richness of Chinese heritage to the world. “We’re not without cultural heritage; it’s just that it has yet to be discovered by others,” he explained, highlighting the importance of integrating traditional techniques with contemporary design.

By celebrating the artistry of the Dong people, Lam not only preserves their craft but also champions sustainability for future generations. His work skillfully blends traditional techniques with contemporary design, creating a powerful narrative that bridges cultures. This approach underscores the importance of honoring and sharing this rich heritage with the world, ensuring that both the past and present are valued in the fashion landscape.

Banner image by Haedi Yue.