Growing up Malaysian, my palate is accustomed to a wide-ranging flavor wheel. From wok-fried Chinese grub and fiery Indian curries to the richness of traditional Malay dishes, I came to adore my home country’s kaleidoscope of colourful cuisines at a young age. But despite an adventurous appetite, I was still surprised by the tempoyak when I first tried it in a curry dish years ago. Admittedly, I’m not the biggest fan of durian, so perhaps tempoyak, fermented durian, wouldn’t be up my alley anyway. Yet, I was no less intrigued to dig into the history of the tempoyak and why it’s possibly becoming a hit in China.

What Exactly is Tempoyak?

Imagine durian, but tangier, slightly sour, and packed with umami. That’s tempoyak in a nutshell. It’s a fermented durian paste commonly found in Malaysia and Indonesia, where it’s used to add depth to savory dishes. While some might shy away from durian’s bold personality, those in the know have embraced tempoyak as an essential part of their food culture.

Fermenting food isn’t new—humans have been doing it for centuries to preserve food and develop new flavors. Tempoyak is no exception. The practice is believed to have originated among the Malay communities, who needed a way to extend the shelf life of their prized durian. Over time, it became a staple ingredient in traditional dishes, celebrated for its intense, tangy kick. In Malaysia, one of the most famous dishes featuring tempoyak is Gulai Tempoyak Ikan Patin—a rich, spicy, and slightly sour curry made with catfish. Over in Sumatra, Indonesia, you’ll find Sambal Tempoyak, a fiery chili paste that packs a punch. 

If you love bold flavors, these dishes are right up your alley. I’ve tried them myself and found that the tempoyak’s taste wasn’t that pronounced. Instead, it added a level of salty-savoury depthness to the overall taste of the dish. 

China Loves Durian, What About Tempoyak?

While tempoyak remains mostly a Southeast Asian specialty, durian itself has exploded in popularity in China. If you think durian is just another tropical fruit, scrap that thought––it’s a billion-dollar industry, and China can’t get enough of it. Here’s a fact: China has imported over 1.38 million tons of durian between January and September 2024 alone, worth a staggering $6.2 billion USD. 

China’s durian obsession is fueled by social media virality, where platforms like Douyin have turned durian into a trendy must-try item. The fruit’s rich, exotic taste and creamy texture appeal to adventurous consumers, while its status as a luxury gift item—especially premium varieties like Musang King—adds to its desirability. Additionally, the belief in durian’s health benefits, along with out-of-this-world food products like durian pizza (yes) and durian coffee (and yes), has cemented its place in China’s culinary scene. With growing demand and creative new applications, durian is more than just a fruit in the country—it’s a hyped commodity. Think the biggest sneaker drops, but instead of a pair of kicks, it’s a handful of thorny fruits. 

The Future of Durian and Tempoyak

China’s love affair with durian shows no signs of slowing down. As demand for the fruit continues to soar, suppliers are developing new and creative ways to incorporate durian into the Chinese diet. From infusing it in desserts and dishes to serving them in buffets, this smelly tropical fruit is making its way into both street food culture and high-end dining experiences. 

With this growing appreciation for durian’s unique taste, could tempoyak be the next big food trend? While still largely unknown outside of Southeast Asia, the Chinese market’s curiosity for new flavors and fermented foods may eventually open doors for tempoyak to be introduced as a gourmet delicacy. Think about it––If durian pizza can be a thing, perhaps it won’t be long before we see tempoyak-infused dishes making an appearance in China’s culinary scene. 

Banner image via Hardware Forum.