Why China’s Newest Tea Trend Leaves a Little to be Desired

I am on a journey. I am looking for white tea. Really good white tea.

As with all journeys, I planned this one more for the process than the destination. Right now white tea is hitting a wave of popularity. Prices are rising and people are talking. The talk though, in this author’s opinion, is pretty odd. Attention is focused on a picking of white tea that was previously thought of as inferior, but is now in the spotlight. While this may not seem like a bad thing, a development even, I worry the reasons for it are all wrong.

White Heat

She was a lady by all means. She walked in the tea shop in a traditional dress, heels and a purse in hand. She was a friend of the owner, my friend as well, and owned a hotel nearby. She spoke with our friend in Mandarin, and while I didn’t understand much I did gather that we were about to taste a white tea.

From her purse she pulled out a plastic bag with a tea cake inside. This is the normal wrapping of a cake that has some age to it. It was a Shou Mei that the lady said was 10 years-old. She had brought it to my friend to taste and judge. My friend brewed the tea and we all gave it a try.

The lady seemed quite pleased with her purchase, but a glance at my friend showed me we both felt the same way about it. The lady asked my friend her thoughts, and while once again I could not understand the exact words my friend seemed to have found a polite way to say, “All the flavor of this tea is gone.” The woman admitted that she actually knew very little about white tea and had only started drinking tea a year ago. She like many others had bought this tea on the notion that the older the white tea was the better it was.

White tea is a tea that is merely dried, it goes under no high heat cooking step. It is first sun dried then baked to finish off, preferably by charcoal. There are a few different types of white tea that are seperated based on the picking and timing of the pick:

1. Silver Needle This is an early picked white tea of just the bud. Sometimes it has a small leaf on it, but it is very small and not usually found in the higher ranges. This tea is the most sought after for its soft but full flavor, brightness and complexity. It commands the highest price of all teas.

2. Bai Mu Dan This is also an early pick, a little after Silver Needle, but also includes a leaf as well. When young it still maintains its brightness but has a slightly softer and more refreshing body than Silver Needle.

3. Gong Mei Gong Mei is the Bai Mu Dan picking — one bud and one leaf — but picked later in the season. The bud by now is long and skinny, while the leaf is much larger than Bai Mu Dan.

4. Shou Mei A tea that was previously almost untalked about. It is the last picking of white tea and is basically all leaf as by this time the buds of the plants have disapeared. This has the boldest flavor with the least sweetness and the most texture (which can be good or bad depending on the tea).

Having Your Cake

I have mentioned before the wave of popularity that white tea was beginning to ride. Before I only made a connection between the popularity of Pu Er and white tea, saying that white tea cakes were becoming as common as Pu Er cakes.

Now though, white tea is working off its own momentum. Fu Ding white tea prices have risen by 40% according to two white tea makers in the area I spoke to. The rise in popularity, it seems, is connected mostly to aged teas. Any discussion of white tea with a seller or the majority of drinkers will confirm this. When I spend time in white tea country conversations are directly or quickly redirected to an aged white tea that the host has and is proud of. I am constantly met with confusion when I say I prefer new tea over old tea. Clearly I am a foreigner, they often seem to think, who just doesn’t understand tea.

Now, I have nothing against aged white tea. As I sit here going over the final edits of this article I am sipping a 2013 Bai Mu Dan that aged to give it a yeasty, nutty, and floral aroma. I do, however, see an imbalance in the conversations.

Shock of the Old

My growing frustration over China’s newest tea trend is that is is very one-sided. Everything seems to be focused on the trending old tea, while very little conversation can be found surrounding new tea. Conversations about new tea, quickly become conversations about old tea. It is as though white tea is only good when it is aged.

A white tea cake of clearly low quality, but with a very high asking price

When compared to new tea, white tea has a bolder flavor, more texture and can display freshly baked bread life flavors. That being said, there is a brightness, a complexity and an aroma that can only be found in new tea. For all these characteristics held by new white tea, as I mentioned before, showing preference for the new teas is almost never met with understanding, sometimes it’s even met with disappointment. (Old tea also sells for a higher price.)



In hindsight I am happy about this trend. I like that white tea is being talked about, and I like the fact that the appreciation of the category is becoming more complex. Teas not talked about before are now having their time to shine and are being seen for what only they have to offer. I just hope that as more people get interested in white tea and dive deeper into it, they eventually begin to appreciate new tea for what it can offer too — even if they still prefer the old.

More adventures in tea:

Photo of the day: Silhouettes at Twilight

This week’s photo takeover is “RIP Laoximen” — a collection of photos by Shanghai street photographer Qian Yang, capturing life in the rapidly-disappearing neighborhood.

I really liked the mixed colors when I passed through here — it seemed like a palette, so I stopped and waited for a while until someone went into the room. The silhouette through the curtains made for a sense of story.

For more about Laoximen:

The United States and China: Too Close for Comfort

On May 11, 1785, the three-masted square-rigged sailing ship The Empress of China returned to New York harbor carrying tea, porcelain and other goods purchased from Guangzhou during a 14-month mission to the China coast. It was the beginning of trade between the Qing Empire, then in its second century of rule, and the newly established United States of America. It was also the start of a relationship which, 200 years later, is destined to define the world order for decades to come.

Last month, the Tsinghua University Academic Center for Chinese Economic Practice and Thinking invited Thomas Friedman, Niall Ferguson, Martin Wolf and other “thought leaders,” a truly bizarre and vain title if there ever was one, to attend a conference with Chinese political and business leaders. The result has been a spate of dutiful platitudes on how China sees things differently than the West.

(Here’s a leading thought: A VIP pass, pseudo-exclusive access, and a half-decent spread of booze are excellent solvents on morality and sound judgment. A technique which seems to have paid dividends for CCP spin masters of late but that was first perfected by the roadies for Mötley Crüe.)

There is of course, some truth behind the platitudes and much has been made of the differences between China and the United States, their history, culture, and political systems. Yet what strikes me as an American who has been living in China for over 15 years are not the differences, it is the similarities. It is also the similarities which have the highest potential to create the kinds of misunderstandings and disconnects that can threaten smooth US-China relations.

The potential for an awkward handshake

China and the US are both large countries who self-identify as anti-imperialist and yet have borders shaped by a history of westward expansion. Both are revolutionary governments utterly infatuated with their own political system. More importantly, Americans and Chinese share the disease of overly exuberant exceptionalism: “The Shining City on the Hill” vs. “5000 years of continuous civilization.” Neither trope is true of course, but dogged belief in a fundamental exceptionalist myth as a litmus test for patriotism is yet another character flaw in common.

That China and the US are built on empire is ideologically inconvenient, and yet both countries reject the mantle of imperialist power. From the beginning, the US has claimed a special relationship with China that implicitly (and sometimes explicitly) draws a distinction between the actions of the European powers in China and the Americans. The Open Door Policy, the Boxer Scholarships, and the missionary enterprise of the 19th and early 20th centuries are all part of this mythology. In the 1950s, the question became how the US “Lost China,” the implication is that China had been something for the Americans to lose. China’s contemporary rejection of the imperialist label begins of course with the depredations against China during the 19th and 20th centuries. And yet, Qing imperial history, particularly in the western regions of what is today the PRC, suggests that it is indeed possible – as it was in the case of the Ottomans – to be both subject to imperialist aggression and to be an expansionist empire.

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There’s also something about revolutionary governments that lends itself to overweening pride in those governments’ chosen political system. When legitimacy is divorced from history, when being distinct from whatever was before becomes its own legitimizing narrative, there exists an even greater need to mythologize and idealize a system whatever its merits. This was certainly true in China in the 1950s and 1960s, perhaps less so later as the practical realities of development often overshadowed ideology, but ideology – like a severe case of herpes – appears merely to have rested dormant. This spring’s odes to Karl Marx and continuing propaganda on national security and “cultural self-confidence” are the most recent examples of a resurgent emphasis on ideology under Xi Jinping. In the US, an uncritical assumption in the superiority of the US system, whatever its flaws in other contexts, has long been a part of the national DNA. Little wonder that observers and pundits from both sides of the Sino-US divide continue to be blinkered by ideology posing as national identity.

Finally, for the reasons outlined above but also by virtue of their size, China and the United States suffer from related cases of Big Country Exceptionalism. This affliction is characterized by a belief that “what is mine” is, by definition, “that which is true.” It manifests as a severe inability to accept as valid any censure from beyond their borders even as, perhaps more insidiously, it renders internal criticism subject to ridicule and hostility on the grounds that such criticism is unpatriotic. “Hurting the Feelings,” “Witch Hunts,” “troublesome foreigners,” “propaganda,” “false news,” “media bias,” it’s getting harder and harder to differentiate the bleating complaints coming from the White House and Zhongnanhai.

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This exceptionalism also affects the behavior of citizens abroad. The stereotype (and reality) of the Ugly American has never really gone away. It has just been joined by a stampede of Chinese tourists, many as unwilling as their American counterparts to adapt to local customs away from the Motherland and, as Americans have done for decades, seem all too eager to throw their economic clout around by way of half-hearted apology to the bruised feelings of the local populace.

As the flames of trade wars die down, momentarily, to embers, it is striking the extent to which the similarities between the US and China seem to cause the most significant stumbling blocks to mutual understanding. There will always be differences, of course. Cultural misunderstandings. Historical experience. Economic realities. Social structures. But in reading the rhetoric between Washington and Beijing over the past few years, and particularly the last couple of weeks, part of the problem just might be that the two sides are a little too close for comfort.

Photo of the day: The Cat Returns

This week’s photo takeover is “RIP Laoximen” — a collection of photos by Shanghai street photographer Qian Yang capturing life in the rapidly-disappearing neighborhood.

After the sun went down, and the shopkeeper went back inside his store, a cat suddenly jumped up onto the windowsill. The contrast of the orange store and the blue sky gave it a special quality.

For more about Laoximen:

Sophia, World’s Most Advanced AI Robot, Lands at RADII

RADII and Brandnographer, in partnership with AGLA and Shanghai Creative collective, present the inaugural FUTURE OF X forum at Hangzhou’s 2050 Conference for youth in science, technology, art, and design, taking place May 25-27th, 2018 in Cloud Town.

Robotics have come a long way from comic book fantasies and cult film classics. Today, the intelligent, humanlike robots that captivated science fiction writers are closer to reality than ever before. Sophia is a hyper-intelligent robot backed by some of the industry’s most advanced AI, and she’s the most recent stage in that evolution. The robot made waves when she debuted for her high-level AI, eerily human conversation abilities, and string of non-traditional robot accolades (Sophia is the first robot to win a title from the United Nations, and the first robot to receive legal citizenship, having become a proud citizen of Saudi Arabia in 2017).

David Chen of Hanson Robotics, along with Sophia herself, will join RADII at the FUTURE OF X series at 2050, to talk about humans, robots, and the space between. The two will explain to audiences their vision for the FUTURE OF ROBOTICS, and why the idea of a robot in every home is no longer a far-off concept.

Date May 27th, 2018

Time 1:30PM – 2:00PM

Register now via this page:

For more on RADII’s FUTURE OF X series at 2050, see here: