Will Covid-19 Kill Bubble Tea in China?

As China looks to get back to some sort of normal in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, “revenge spending” has become all the rage. With millions of people in China’s major cities having spent at least several weeks confined to apartments, some are keen to open their wallets again as much as open their front doors. That’s perhaps one reason why Hermès’ Guangzhou flagship store reportedly took in 2.7 million USD in one day this past weekend.

While this may seem like good news for shops and restaurants that have seen business battered by the pandemic and China’s subsequent control measures, some brands are finding that “revenge spending” can cause a new set of headaches.




As Haidilao, a popular hotpot chain, started to reopen its restaurants in February, netizens noticed several ingredients had surreptitiously gone up in price, seemingly by an average of around 6%. Naturally, hotpot-deprived Chinese citizens were not happy. After many took to social media to express their outrage over the price hikes, Haidilao apologized on social media and promised to put prices back to what they were pre-Covid-19. According to the statement, the price hike was “a bad decision on behalf of company management.”

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Soon after, northwestern cuisine-themed restaurant chain Xibei followed suit. Netizens were quick to forgive, praising Haidilao and Xibei for making the tough decision. Upvoted comments on Haidilao’s post read: “This is the customer-oriented Haidilao I know” (you can famously get your nails done while waiting in line there), and “Ok, you are forgiven.”

However, one restaurant still caught in angry consumers’ crosshairs is Hey Tea, a Guangdong-based tea chain that is credited with starting the cheese foam craze of 2017.




After Hey Tea raised the price of five drinks by 2RMB (0.30USD), netizens have been putting the pressure on Hey Tea to follow Haidilao’s example. Currently, the hashtag #MilkTeaNowCosts30RMBWillYouEverDrinkAgain? lamenting the advent of the “30RMB milk tea era” has over 460 million hits on the Twitter-like Chinese social media platform Weibo.

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The hashtag has people seriously swearing off bubble tea in protest. According to a Weibo poll asking whether they’d drink bubble tea again, over a million people chose “No, I’ve been put off by the price increase.”

The comments under Hey Tea’s most recent post are pretty straightforward: “Haidilao apologized, when will your price be adjusted back?” reads one. “Haidilao cut prices, little baby, what do you say?” implores another.

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Wait til they find out how much Xi’an Famous Foods is charging for their chili oil….

It seems that, faced with such intense public scrutiny, Haidilao and Xibei had no choice but to back down. However, restaurant chains across China are struggling to recover from the loss of profit during the quarantine period. According to the China Times (link in Chinese), Haidilao lost on average 80 million RMB (about 11 million USD) for every day of lockdown, with a total loss of over 1.1 billion RMB (156 million USD). Against such a stark backdrop, eventual price rises seem inevitable, though they may need to be more stealthily implemented in future.

Cover photo via Unsplash

Read a New Story by Chinese Sci-Fi Writer Stanley Chen

One of China’s leading science fiction writers has a new story out in Hugo Award-winning sci-fi and fantasy publication Clarkesworld — in case you’re looking for something to add to your isolation reading list. Debtless by Chen Qiufan (also known as Stanley Chen) has been translated by Blake Stone-Banks and included in the April issue of the renowned magazine.

The story, originally published in Chinese last year, is set in a future where humans have been committed to gruelling asteroid-mining work due to a “genetic debt” that needs to be paid off. It’s a “dizzying reflection on the worship of debt,” according to Stone-Banks.

Chen is one of China’s pre-eminent sci-fi authors, whose work has been featured in the likes of Esquire, Chutzpah, and Pathlight. It’s also far from his first work to be published by Clarkesworld, which regular presents translated stories from the world of Chinese sci-fi.

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Science fiction has a long history in China, but has become an area of particular focus in recent years thanks to the international success of writers such as Liu Cixin — both through his books and fiction, but also the film adaptation of The Wandering Earth, which became a blockbuster hit last year. Liu’s novel The Three-Body Problem and its sequels have also been the subject of fevered adaptation attempts.

Clarkesworld — founded by Neil Clarke in 2006 — makes much of its content available for free, but you should consider supporting its work with a digital subscription or Patreon donation.

Xinjiang Rocker Jurat T.T of “the Uyghur Pink Floyd” on Pain, Childhood and Music

Jurat T.T is an anomaly in Chinese underground music.

Having always refused to sign to a major label, preferring to remain a free spirit and making his music by himself, the guitarist and songwriter has independently released countless albums and tracks in the past 20 years, mixing his peculiar blend of musical inspiration with a variety of different styles from different parts of the world.

Jurat was born in Karamay in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, an area of the world that has of course been making international headlines for non-musical reasons in recent years. He began to play the guitar in 1994, mixing traditional Xinjiang music with modern pop and rock. Around that time, he was primarily influenced by pop music from Hong Kong and Taiwan, which was pervasive through Chinese society in the early 1990s. “In the summer of 1990, I bought a best-of tape of popular bands from Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore,” he says. “There were songs from Alan Tam, Leslie Cheung and Angus Tong. There was only one song from the Hong Kong band Beyond, but it had a lasting impact on me.”

Like a lot of Chinese musicians in the ’90s, Beyond became Jurat’s favorite band. It was his encounter with the Hong Kong band’s first album, which was originally published in 1986, that inspired him the most. “I remember in 1994 buying their first album, Goodbye Ideal (再见理想). There was this song, called ‘Myth,’ the arrangements were so complicated and beautiful. I listened to the song all night long, crying. I found out what kind of music I needed in my life”.

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Over time Goodbye Ideal has come to be considered Beyond’s most experimental album. The record leans closer towards a heavy metal sound than their more famous pop stylings, something that came to influence Jurat indelibly.

Jurat’s first band was formed in Dushanzi, a district of Karamay. The group was made up of five people and played popular and ethnic songs. In 2002, he left the band to settle in Beijing, then the center of China’s flourishing independent music scene. It was in Beijing that Jurat would find his distinctive and unique sound with his band, Dark Lake. Dubbed the “Xinjiang Pink Floyd,” Jurat and Dark Lake brought their blend of Uyghur and psychedelic rock music to bear on major Beijing independent music venues, such as D22, Temple, V.A. and Hotcat.

His masterpiece was released in 2010, entitled Sans Famille. The 13 track album sees Jurat sing in Uyghur about life and death and is influenced by both Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd, while maintaining a very distinct Xinjiang rhythm.

The title of the album is inspired by the French book Sans Famille (Without Family) written in 1878 by Hector Malot. That book’s plot fits the mood of Jurat’s record, as an abandoned child tries to solve the mystery of his origins. “I bought a translated version of the book for my birthday in 2001,” he says. “I read it in one night, it inspired me to write these songs.”

The cover of the album is also very revealing, Jurat is in the middle, caught between a traditional Xinjiang village and a modern city, in front of a graveyard. “The graves symbolize the end of my journey, it also represents the content of all the songs on this album.”

Jurat’s sound has taken a more experimental turn these past few years. For example he uses fewer lyrics, but each of the songs combine to tell the intimate story of Jurat, his longing for his hometown and memories from his childhood. His songs are infused with his emotional pain, his feelings and memories. As he says, “I am not afraid of suffering in my life, I am only afraid of the pain in my heart.”

 

Earlier this year, Jurat released his latest album, Mr. Tree’s Story II, a sequel to Mr. Tree’s Story, which was released in 2019. Both albums tell the story of Mr. Poor, who recalls both his happy childhood memories and also his losses, family pressure and career failures while sitting under a tree. The two albums combine as a diptych, a long experimental story of sad and happy memories. “There are three songs that I particularly like, ‘Nice Dance Spirit’, ‘Hometown Ballad’ and ‘Dark Garden,’” Jurat tells us.

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Unfortunately, due to the Covid-19 outbreak, Jurat has had to postpone all of the performances he had planned for the album’s release.

“I was about to play a show for the release of the new album at 798 [a major art district in Beijing], but it got canceled. I’m good, despite the virus, for different reasons these past few years I don’t like to go out anyway.”

Jurat is already thinking ahead to when the outbreak comes to an end, at which point he would like to organize a special kind of performance combining his last two albums, “some kind of musical, with performances and dances, to tell the complete story of Mr. Tree.

Marriage Registrations Triple in Post-Lockdown Wuhan

Wuhan, the Chinese city at the epicenter of the Covid-19 pandemic, emerged from its 76-day lockdown period last Wednesday. As the city begins to wake up from its slumber, it seems that couples are eager to celebrate the return to normalcy — by getting married in droves.

Alibaba’s Alipay marriage registration app saw a 300% increase in marriage application rates after the lockdown was lifted. According to Alipay’s Weibo microblogging account, it even caused the system to become overloaded and freeze.

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The surprising surge comes after marriages in Wuhan were suspended during the months of February and March. Wuhan’s city marriage registration services reopened on April 3rd.

The news stands in hopeful contrast to reports of soaring divorce rates in cities like Xi’an, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Chengdu, and Guangzhou, where some couples ended up with more one-on-one time than they’d bargained for.

In Wuhan, seems that those who quarantine together, stay together.

Travel to China on Zoom: Hand-Pulled Noodle Class, Murder, and More

Bespoke Travel Company, a Beijing- and Shanghai-based tour agency is adapting to the times and bringing the “travel” to you: the company has unveiled a “Bespoke Speaker Series” that will bring together seven China experts for a series of lectures and talks — over Zoom, of course.

The series covers a range of topics from history to cooking, all taught by award-winning authors, scholars, and chefs.

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Classes include “All the Tea in China: A masterclass in tea appreciation” taught by “tea guru” and founder of travel company Shanghai & Beyond, Tracy Lesh.

If tea’s not your thing, try “Murders of Old China: The foreigners caught up in China’s most controversial killings, and the mysteries solved a century later,” taught by New York Times bestselling author Paul French.

Or if you want courtly intrigue, we recommend “The Life of Empress Dowager Cixi: China’s most remarkable and misunderstood ruler just happened to be a woman,” by the inimitable Jeremiah Jenne, also a regular RADII contributor.

Other subjects include a beginner course in making hand-pulled noodles, and training techniques behind an ancient Chinese workout, to name a couple.

Sessions will be held on Zoom every Tuesday and Thursday starting April 14 to May 5, for you or the budding sinophile in your life. Passes for the Bespoke series are available here.

Shenzhen Becomes the First City in China to Ban Eating Dogs

Authorities in the southern Chinese city of Shenzhen have passed a landmark piece of legislation, making it illegal to eat dogs and cats, and banning the sale of the animals for consumption.

In China’s major cities, most people look down on the consumption of such animals, with only a few vendors lingering in the more remote outskirts. But in some rural areas, the practice is more common — animal welfare organization Humane Society International estimates some 30 million dogs are killed across Asia for consumption annually.

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“Dogs and cats as pets have established a much closer relationship with humans than all other animals,” the Shenzhen city government stated in their official announcement.

Shenzhen’s new regulation follows China’s nationwide permanent shutdown of the 74 billion USD wild animal trade in late February in response to the Covid-19 outbreak.

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Recent reports implicate pangolins as a potential intermediary host of Covid-19 before it jumped to humans, in the same way that the bat-borne SARS coronavirus is thought to have first spread to civet cats. Pangolins are sold illegally for their meat and their keratin scales.

But cats and dogs don’t count as “wild animals” under the blanket new ban. Rather, Shenzhen’s individual decision as a city is a proactive step in the right direction — not necessarily for curbing viral pandemics, but for the general treatment of animals and the food industry.