Wǒ Men Podcast: The China Fear

The Wǒ Men Podcast is a discussion of life in China hosted by Yajun Zhang, Jingjing Zhang and Karoline Kan. Previous episodes of the Wǒ Men Podcast can be found here, and you can subscribe to Wǒ Men on iTunes here.

China dominates global headlines right now — and few of them are positive. But is fear of the country justified? And what impact is the breakdown in dialogue between China and the English-speaking world having on Chinese living and travelling abroad? Three Chinese women — based both at home and overseas — share their perspectives.

Listen below on Mixcloud, or find Wǒ Men on iTunes here.

Wǒ Men Podcast: Where Next for China’s Singles’ Day and Its “Buy, Buy, Buy” Culture?

The Wǒ Men Podcast is a discussion of life in China hosted by Yajun Zhang, Jingjing Zhang and Karoline Kan. Previous episodes of the Wǒ Men Podcast can be found here, and you can subscribe to Wǒ Men on iTunes here.

Did you do lots of shopping on Double 11 this year also known as Singles’ Day? It’s China’s biggest online shopping holiday and is something of an equivalent to Black Friday in the US — but with much bigger sales numbers.

But is Singles’ Day still the culture phenomenon it once was, where if you have not participated, you feel left out? Are some people starting to lose interest? Is there an end in sight for China’s apparent obsession with such mass retail therapy?

This is an encore episode where Yajun and Jingjing discuss the buy, buy, buy culture in China.

Listen below on Mixcloud, or find Wǒ Men on iTunes here.

“Mulan” Lead Liu Yifei Makes Hollywood Reporter Rising Stars List

The Hollywood Reporter just put out a run-down of Next Gen Talent 2019, looking at “Hollywood’s rising young stars.” In amongst the likes of Little Mermaid-to-be Halle Bailey, Shang-Chi‘s Simu Liu, and Euphoria star Hunter Schafer is Chinese actress Liu Yifei, the lead in Disney’s live-action remake of Mulan.

Liu’s inclusion has given the list plenty of attention back in her home country too, with tens of thousands liking a prominent post about the article on microblogging site Weibo and thousands adding comments.

Demonstrating some Disney-fied media training, Liu selects Frozen soundtrack “Let It Go” as her go-to KTV (karaoke) song, and perhaps unsurprisingly says that WeChat is the app she checks in the morning. THR also ask her for a person she’d most like to work with plus the person she’s been most star-struck by, with Darren Aronofsky and Natalie Portman being her answers respectively.

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Mulan will be Liu’s first major Hollywood role, and her presence in the Disney film is controversial both at home and abroad. Liu was one of a number of prominent celebrities to post a meme in support of the Hong Kong police this summer, sparking calls for a boycott of the movie in the US. Disney and Liu subsequently stayed quiet on the matter, but the issue could well resurface as Mulan gears up for release in March 2020.

In China meanwhile, Liu has faced criticism over both her acting ability and looks. Yet as much as the haters have weighed in on her making the THR list, it’s also being seen as a source of pride by many on the Chinese internet.

“Asian faces are going out to the world,” declares one highly-upvoted comment on Weibo, while others praise her for being at the forefront of Chinese representation in Hollywood. Her appearance on the list has become one of the hottest trending hashtags on the microblogging platform in the past few hours, picking up more than 300 million views.

Once Status Symbols, Purebreed Pets are Increasingly Abandoned in China

To many people outside of China, it is still considered a country of dog eaters. It may surprise them to hear that China’s market for pets and pets-related goods has tripled in the last five years, projected to reach 214 billion RMB by 2022. While dog eating is still practiced in certain areas, the trend is not to cook them, but rather to pamper them exorbitantly.

According to goumin.com — China’s largest pet information platform — as of 2018 there are 73.55 million urban pet owners in China, and they spent an average of 5,016 RMB per pet last year, up 15% from 2017.

In cities like Shanghai, pet specialty shops have sprung up at an impressive speed. On every street you can spot well-groomed dogs trotting at their owners’ heels. I’ve met people who have bought extra refrigerators to keep all their fancy imported pet food and snacks. A friend of a friend launched her own petite dog fashion line that sold tweed capes, rain coats, and tuxedo jackets. My social media continuously shows me pictures of friends showing off their furry companions. I’ve been frankly dazzled by the pet love all around me — it certainly seems like pets in China are living their best lives.

Yet out of the proverbial corner of my eye, I do notice a few friends who are involved in animal rescue frequently posting urgent messages on social media about cats and dogs that needed a forever home, or fundraised for rescue animal medical bills. It didn’t occur to me that this could be connected with the booming pet industry until I spoke recently with Larisa Ischenko, a localization specialist who does animal rescue in her spare time. “In the last three years I have done animal rescue, it has gotten so much harder,” Ischenko says. “There are more animals being rescued than ever, and fewer people willing to adopt them.

“Purebreds used to get adopted in a day or a week, and now many wait indefinitely.”

Even without being a pet owner, I knew purebreds are coveted status symbols and quite expensive — surely it’s not hard to find purebred pets a new home if they are being given away for free? And if Chinese pet owners are spending more on their pets than ever before, why do so many end up homeless?

It turns out there’s a lot I didn’t know about the world of pets in China.

When I was growing up in Beijing in the early ’90s, pets were not very common. My aunt had a pet cat that ate her leftovers in a plastic dish under the dining room table and kept the mice away. Once denounced by Mao Zedong as “bourgeois vanity,” it wasn’t until the 2010s when pet ownership became extremely fashionable, causing the market for all things pets to boom.

Common local breeds quickly gave way to beautiful purebred animals. For cats, it was the Scottish Fold; for dogs, it was the Tibetan Mastiff, Samoy, Alaskan Malamute, Golden Retriever, Bulldog, Shiba Inu, Toy Poodle and more.

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Out of the long list of trendy dog breeds, only a few fare well in urban environments and climates where they end up — most suffer from cramped living spaces, lack of exercise, and skin disease. Inexperienced owners cannot anticipate that the cute, cuddly pups and kittens will in fact demand so much more of their time and energy when they are grown.

As noted by Alexandra Vasquez, an investment banker and seasoned volunteer with the PPAR Shelter in Shanghai:

“Many first time owners are drawn to the beauty and status of purebred pets, but even though buying them is easy, they lack basic knowledge about what the animals need.

“With adoption, potential owners are screened much more thoroughly by rescuers for compatibility before an animal is taken home.”

It certainly seems far too easy to become a pet owner in China, and it is an area that is virtually a regulatory void. The only laws that pertain to pets concern household registration and dog walking area restrictions. There is nothing related to standardization of animal welfare, health, or commerce. The government has taken a laissez faire stance, allowing the market to develop unhindered by regulation. If anything, the authorities seem only keen to encourage pet ownership. It was 2,000RMB to procure a dog license seven years ago in central Shanghai; today, it is only 300RMB.

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Akita and Shiba Inu puppies at Shanghai’s annual pet expo

Shanghai has the highest average disposable income in the country at 64,183RMB per year. If 2,000RMB for a pet license was prohibitive before, the 85% discount lowered the barrier of entry to that of an impulse buy. For unscrupulous breeders looking to make easy money, nothing prevents them from taking advantage of high demand by churning out puppies and kittens in unsanitary and unhealthy conditions. Vasquez recounts her own experience of busting a puppy mill in her own apartment building, where 12 volunteers rescued over 90 puppies from a 40-square-meter apartment stacked wall-to-wall with filthy cages.

Animals bred in inhumane conditions often become what’s referred to as “week cats” and “week dogs,” as in they live for only one week after purchase. Hu Yiruo, a pet shop owner and rescuer, laments: “Lack of upstream control is the biggest problem today.

“In other countries you have to jump through some hoops to be able to sell and buy live animals. In China, you just need to be able to afford it, and few seem to consider the possibility of having compatibility issues with their pet, or have a back-up plan.”

Though pet abandonment is increasingly considered inappropriate by the younger generation, it is still a growing problem by volume due to the sheer increase in pet ownership. On microblogging site Weibo, there are numerous posts about animals abandoned at pet stores (see below image), and the rescuers I spoke to all protect their identities for fear of being buried in abandoned pets that people would dump on their doorsteps.

Posts on social media featuring pets abandoned at pet stores (images: Weibo)

Many pet clinics and hotels now charge high deposits to deter owners from not picking up their pets after this became a popular practice for those who do not have the heart to throw their pets away.

Sean Factor, a shipping manager and dedicated rescuer, is worried that the various shelters and rescues that depend entirely on volunteers and donations will become overwhelmed and burnt out from the ever-growing number of animals that need help. “I really wish pet owners would become better educated on pets, so that fewer pets are given up,” he says. “Volunteer rescuers cannot keep taking on this growing burden alone.”

“So many still part too easily with their pets, be it due to marriage, break up, pregnancy, sickness, moving homes — everything is a valid excuse. Many still don’t treat pets like family members, and we rescuers only do what we can,” Fang Min, a retired cat rescuer with 14 cats at home, told me. A devout Buddhist, she is very critical of people who treat pets like commodities rather than as living beings with feelings and needs.

According to goumin.com, a higher number of cats are acquired through adoption than dogs, and sadly for dogs that are not taken in by rescuers, a grim fate likely awaits them. Hu informed me that many districts in Shanghai have civil servants whose sole duties are to capture stray dogs to fulfill a monthly quota. These dogs are then permanently impounded until death, with no hope to be adopted and saved.

As the pet market in China continues to grow, so does the population of strays. (This is partly because of popular attitudes towards neutering and spaying pets, which often vary from neutral to resistant to the practice.) Leslie Han, head of animal welfare for Vet An An pet clinic in Shanghai, remarked that a TNR (“Trap-Neuter-Release”) program has seen modest success through collaboration with the local government, and that his team managed to neuter some 3,000 cats in the last two years, estimated to be around 1% of the city’s stray cat population.

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While preventing further reproduction in strays is helpful, many agree the most effective measure is to nip this trend in the bud, and legislate on industry standards so as to encourage humane and responsible breeding and selling of pets, as well as more informed pet ownership.

Recombinant Festival is Bringing China’s Avant Club Music to San Francisco

If you’re in the Bay Area this month, we highly recommend grabbing a ticket to the upcoming Recombinant Festival, happening from November 14-16 at the Gray Area Grand Theater in San Francisco.

Recombinant Festival has a history of putting up impressive programs of bleeding edge music, performance and multimedia art. Though the 2019 edition is a bit smaller than previous years (2018’s bill included more than 20 artists, including left-field dance music heavyweights Rrose and Demdike Stare), Recombinant 2019 is book-ended by big-league events, with an opening screening of a brand-new SWANS documentary and a headlining closing performance by Morton Subotnick, the quintessential early pioneer of American electronic composition.

Sandwiched in between these is a stellar showcase of artists from Japan and China, featuring Beijing techno producer Shao alongside indomitable Shanghai duo 33EMYBW and Gooooose. This part of the program was tailored by the festival’s Creative Producer for 2019, Philip L, who lived in China for nearly a decade, performed at seminal underground Shanghai club The Shelter (the predecessor to ALL), and hosted Shao and Shanghai multimedia artist Lu Yang on a video platform he co-founded, STRRR TV.

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“We are seeking music that expresses unusual attitudes and approaches,” says L, adding that this has “always been the approach” of Naut Humon, who founded the festival’s umbrella organization, Recombinant Media Lab (RML), in San Francisco in 1991. “Just being part of the scene here in San Francisco and going to shows weekly, I noticed a lot of people were interested in the Asia/China scene, and would ask me a lot of questions about it,” L adds.

The booking of Shao extended from L’s work remixing a track from the Beijing producer’s 2018 Doppler Shift album, notable for being the first LP by a Chinese artist released on the label arm of seminal Berlin club Tresor. For Recombinant 2019 Shao’s set will feature visuals from longtime collaborator Wang Meng, founder of Shanghai creative studio Atomic Visual. Shao’s cold, crystalline production work resonates with the festival’s historically techno-leaning program, and made a personal impression on RML founder Humon, who praises its “vanguard velocity, with a long and steady approach towards pulse structures.”

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L first met the two Shanghai producers at a show at ALL for Hyperdub artist Laurel Halo. 33EMYBW and Gooooose’s booking at Recombinant comes at the end of an incredibly busy year: 33EMYBW recently played an Aphex Twin-curated warehouse party in Manchester, and both of them have done a marathon lap of music festivals around world, playing high-profile slots at Unsound in Poland, Nyege Nyege in Uganda, and Soft Centre in Australia.

Humon admires the “deliberate intention and the conveyed deviancy” in 33EMYBW’s work, according to L, who has further bonded with Gooooose over a shared love of West Coast modular synthesis and the early experiments in electronic composition made by people like Recombinant headliner Subotnick.

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“Through promoting the shows, we’ve gotten a lot of interest, as a lot of people in the scene here are into the cyberpunk ethos, and Shanghai and Beijing really give off that urban metropolis type of post-cyberpunk vibe,” says L. He adds that Recombinant plans to sustain its focus on China, and launch a Chinese version of the festival in the future. “The focus on Chinese artists will not be a one-off thing,” he says — a possible 2020 event for Shanghai techno mainstay MHP is already in the offing.

Ultimately, the goal is to increase understanding among the Recombinant audience of a scene that is in some ways younger and less known than its counterparts elsewhere in the world. “It is my opinion that Europe and Japan have a more mature, stable scene, while the Chinese scene is in a constant state of flux and mutability,” says L. “We find this exciting, and wish to share this with audiences here in California.”

Find full programming and ticketing info for Recombinant 2019 here. And if you’re in LA, the East Asian artists on the program will additionally pop up for an event in LA on November 20; info on that here.

China Designers: Why This Duo Wants to Rewrite the Book on Masculine Fashion

China Designers is a biweekly series that showcases the wide spectrum of creativity in Chinese fashion design. From small designers to big brands, these names are changing the connotations of “Made in China,” one collection at a time. Write to us if you have a suggestion or submission.

To Liu Danxia and Wong Shanpeng, being a “soft” and “sensitive” man should be a point of pride.

With their menswear label Danshan, the London-based designers push a brand of beauty that embraces openness and vulnerability as central tenants of what it means to be male in today’s world.

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The Hong Kong-Guangzhou design team met during their first year at Central St. Martin’s, an incubator for many of China’s rising design talents.

“CSM taught us the right approach to design,” Liu says. “It takes a lot of tenacity, courage, and consistency to make it in this industry.” Despite being first enrolled in CSM’s womenswear program, the mixed-gender duo found that they each had a unique relationship to masculinity.

Liu was raised as a boy until adolescence under China’s one-child policy, and says she developed a complex about her family preferring a boy over the girl they ended up with. As an adult, she became more educated about women’s issues, and found that while femininity underwent a lot of growth and evolution with the feminist movement, masculinity had by contrast changed very little. “Men are still very much bound to [fulfill] their more traditional roles,” she is quoted as saying in 2016. “If they don’t […] they’re judged and [labeled] as losers if they fail.”

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Liu similarly told Dazed about a formative moment where she saw this double standard unfold before her eyes. When her grandmother died, she recalls she didn’t see “a single tear fall” from her father’s eyes. “That was the moment I realized that there is something very wrong [with] society’s expectation of what it means to be a man.

“Without a space where men can be vulnerable, so many things become pent up and explode, which has endless impacts on society.”

This desire for vulnerability is readily apparent throughout their SS20 collection. At the Shanghai Fashion Week preview of the collection, models walked solemnly to the tempo of crashing drumbeats punctuated by heavy breathing, via sound artist Sisi Liu. In contrast to the soundtrack’s harshness, the collection “_EUPHORIA_” is soft, lyrical, and at points, seeming to unravel all together. Fitted silk trousers and flowing, asymmetrical blouses are framed with frayed hems that hint at, in the designers’ words, the “beauty that can be found in moments of distress or fragility.”

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Two looks from Danshan SS20

The label embraces the very notion of “flaws,” writing:

“The techniques used in the detailing of these garments could be perceived as flaws. Here they are deliberately presented to enhance Danshan’s narrative that emotion and vulnerability are natural, and something to embrace rather than fear.”

The duo acknowledge that in China — a place where gender issues are in flux and male beauty is on a mercurial rise — the commentary will no doubt have to evolve. “China is moving so fast. The landscape of masculinity is quickly changing,” says Liu.

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But both feel there is still a long way to go. “Our works are always a reflection of the status quo,” she adds. “With the rapid growth of the economy, the social pressure has been increasingly high. It is still important to support men with more empathy and gentleness.”

Though they’ve collaborated with retailers such as Farfetch and Lane Crawford, “Dan” and “Shan” still opt to keep their concept intact and their production small with every collection, working with a family-run factory in Guangzhou that is “willing to grow and develop” with them. And as the face of Chinese masculinity changes, the designers are optimistic the market for a line like theirs is emerging as well. “Asian men have a more adventurous fashion sense,” says Liu matter-of-factly. “We design for those who have a keen eye for quality and detail, and a desire to express themselves.”

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Follow Danshan on Instagram.

All images: courtesy Danshan