Overly-Petite Clothing Sparks Beauty Standard Debate

A-list Chinese actress Zhang Xinyu didn’t necessarily expect to stir up such a heated debate when she shared her recent shopping experience on social media platform Weibo.


“I really like the clothes from a certain brand, but I can’t even fit into their large size,” the actress posted on May 13.


“No, it’s not children’s clothing lol. I won’t mention the brand, but I really feel that they are being too strict about body size. If you weigh over 50 kg, you can’t wear their clothes.”


Chinese actress

Chinese actress Zhang Xinyu. Image via Weibo


The statement resonated with women online, who chimed in saying that if a major celebrity with a strict diet and a personal trainer can’t even fit into Large-sized clothes, maybe the current standards of size and beauty need some rethinking. A related hashtag quickly racked up over 87 million views.


In recent years, a noticeable trend has emerged in the fashion industry, particularly in women’s clothing, where sizes are shrinking at unprecedented rates. Leading clothing brands, including popular names like Uniqlo, Gap, and Nike have begun introducing a considerable number of extra-petite women’s clothing items.


These brands, previously known for their “comfortable and loose” styles, are now aligning with the prevailing fashion trend of petite sizing. This change reflects the increasing popularity of brands specializing in petite women’s clothing, such as Brandy Melville, the viral American brand famous for selling only one size of garments. The brand has gained significant traction with the help of influencers and celebrities endorsing their products.


Brandy Melville

Famous Chinese actress Yang Mi is often spotted shopping at the viral Brandy Melville Store. Image via Weibo


The shift towards smaller sizes has excited one branch of fashion enthusiasts, who take pride in being able to fit into these tiny garments. On social media platforms like Xiaohongshu, countless users and bloggers have become fervent supporters of the petite fashion trend, showcasing their attractive figures in small-sized clothing and enjoying the “hot girl (辣妹)” style that others seek to emulate.


However, there are also fierce critics of the trend, who argue that it perpetuates unrealistic beauty standards and body image anxieties among women. Many Xiaohongshu users, in particular, have expressed concerns that the promotion of petite fashion is exclusionary and leaves those who do not conform to smaller sizes feeling inadequate or abnormal, especially when it comes to teenage girls who are still in their formative years.


chinese influencer

Chinese influencer showcasing their “hot girl” outfits on social media platforms. Image via Xiaohongshu


Just a couple weeks ago, a new documentary told the story of a 15-year-old girl in China who passed away after suffering from anorexia. According to the documentary, the patient started dieting after a boy she liked fell for a skinnier girl. Extreme dieting slowly evolved to the point that she couldn’t keep any food down.


The shocking story is just one factor causing people to reflect on societal expectations when it comes to women’s bodies. The emphasis on being slim, young, and pale has long plagued women, particularly in East Asian societies, and a recent report on China’s cosmetics industry shows that interest in skin-whitening products is still on the rise.


For now, the shrinking size of women’s clothing in China doesn’t look ready to slow down.


Cover image via Depositphotos

Du Kun: Fusing Music, Architecture, and Digital Art

China’s Digital Renaissance is a series exploring new currents in Chinese contemporary art, created in partnership with East West Bank. This article centers on Du Kun, whose work blurs the line between disparate media.


Conceptually and practically, Du Kun’s work is about pushing the line.


The Sichuan-born artist combines mediums of painting, architecture, and rock music to create captivating pieces. The result is a new product that’s rooted in the Chinese visual tradition, but which embraces a refreshing willingness to delve into the unknown.


revels of the rock gods du kun


Born in 1982 in the city of Suining, Du Kun graduated from a high school affiliated with the China Academy of Art, before later obtaining a Bachelor’s degree in oil painting from the Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing in 2007.


One of Du Kun’s well-known series is Revels of the Rock Gods (众神闹), where he combines his passion for music, Buddhist and Confucian architecture, and oil painting.


The series features monumental temple-like portraits of Chinese rock musicians. Du Kun explained that it reflects the transformative era of his upbringing, where he and his generation were shaped by a mix of traditional values and Western ideas.


“Those of us born in the 1980s were heavily influenced by traditional Buddhist or Confucian values, but also grew up with the great impact of Western ideas. We live in a great transformative era in China,” he told CNN during an interview. “I tried to express the idea of freedom, democracy, critical thinking, and courage of overthrowing the past through the rock singers.”


In his series “Scores of Landscapes (谱山水)”, Du Kun merges traditional Chinese landscape painting with elements of contemporary music, blending visual art with an auditory experience.

“The scrolls of landscape paintings in this series look serene and ancient as if they have frozen the history of thousands of years. But in fact, these landscapes themselves are pieces of nervous, sad, atonal, and even eccentric music,” he explained .


“Playing music is my only hobby. I explain music theory entirely in terms of painting. In fact, they are interlinked. It can be said that a painter composes music with pigments, and a musician uses sounds to paint, just like mutual translation between different languages.”


Du Kun applies his music composition to the medium of painting, translating the visual waveforms of sound into traditional Chinese landscape paintings. Those paintings and musical compositions end up as videos or animations, for a final multimedia product.


His approach highlights an interconnectedness between painting and music that can be hard to pinpoint.


“I think today’s audience tends to be more visually oriented because it’s faster to obtain information from a picture than from a song. In this fast-paced society, I think visuals spread information faster and more directly than music,” he told RADII.


Du Kun’s work has received plenty of international attention. His collaboration with the advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi earned him a Gold Award at the One Show Advertising Awards, and in 2020, he was nominated for the Sovereign Asian Art Prize in Hong Kong.


While Du Kun acknowledges the benefits of digital technologies in his creative process, he consciously avoids relying on AI, instead focusing on crafting his own distinctive sound and performance that he feels can’t be generated by any software.


“Modern digital technology is precise and rarely makes mistakes, unlike humans who are prone to errors. Beauty lies in flaws, twists, and happy accidents, making our mistakes the raw material for the artistic expression of our humanity,” he says.


All images via Du Kun

In China, Sarcastic Graduation Photos Reveal Gen-Z’s True Feelings

In a new trend, graduation photoshoots in China have taken a wildly creative approach, leaning towards surreal and sarcastic shots with a heavy dose of reality.


Over the past few weeks, China’s Instagram-like social media platform Xiaohongshu has been inundated with graduation posts. The hashtag has racked up 1.3 billion views, with thousands of users sharing photos of their much-anticipated graduation days.


Images via @总选第一布丁狗 and @小马莉莉子 on Xiahongshu.

Images via @总选第一布丁狗 and @小马莉莉子 on Xiaohongshu.


This year though, instead of the classic hat-throwing, flower-holding, and joyful smiles, students are opting for defeated poses, apocalyptic backgrounds, or purely sarcastic shots. They may be captured throwing their graduation theses into the trashcan, or passing out on the ground in front of their college buildings.


The steep departure from a ‘picture-perfect’ graduation narrative hints at a rising skepticism toward education as a pathway to success, and perhaps a more relaxed attitude toward academia overall.


china graduation shoots

Images via @陆蒜苗儿 and @总选第一布丁狗 on Xiaohongshu.


Higher education in China has long been considered an enabler when it comes to social mobility, with the infamous gaokao college entrance exam playing a central role in determining one’s future.


While the gaokao remains incredibly competitive, higher education in China has expanded immensely in recent years, with 10 million students graduating in 2022, and an increasing number of fresh grads opting for advanced degrees.


china graduation shooting

Image via @只想搞钱的椰子很想踢足球 on Xiaohongshu.


But the tidal wave of sarcastic graduation photos is just the latest chapter in a book of recession-fueled viral trends.


Youth unemployment in China hit a record 20.8% in May 2023, a further increase from April 2023 (20.4%), worrying experts, policymakers and fresh grads alike.


To face an unstable job market, younger generations in China are increasingly opting for jobs that were once considered unappealing, such as security guard and civil servant positions.


civil servant chic

Images via Xiaohongshu.


Public sector jobs are increasingly being seen as more stable, compared to the uncertainty of the convoluted private job market. This shift in mentality resulted in the bizarre rise of ‘civil servant chic’ in 2022, an understated aesthetic inspired by the uniforms of state-owned enterprises and administration sector employees.


Another instance of public debate around the issue took place last March, when the story of a fresh graduate turned trash collector went viral, leaving many asking if college students should stop considering themselves “too good for manual labor.”


Cover image via Xiaohongshu.

Is AI Killing Art? Superstar Artists Zhang Huan and Xu Bing Weigh In

China’s Digital Renaissance is a series exploring new currents in Chinese contemporary art, created in partnership with East West Bank. In this article, we speak with legendary artists Zhang Huan and Xu Bing about recent developments in AI art. Venturing into certain corners of Instagram today means falling into a kaleidoscopic abyss of AI-generated art, with everything from zombie-like characters in dystopian worlds, to imaginary Art Nouveau-style wonders. As a creative medium, generative AI is gradually eclipsing the NFT craze of the past few years, and has begun to make waves in the art world. AI has even made it to offline art fairs and competitions — last year, a Colorado artist made headlines when his AI-generated artwork won first prize, beating out the human competition. undefined
‘Théâtre D’opéra Spatial’ by Colorado artist Jason M. Allen via Midjourney
Needless to say, frenzy and controversy followed, with no shortage of criticism. Beyond issues of authenticity and algorithmic bias, the intertwining of art and technology puts a question mark over the idea of creativity itself. There’s now a renewed fear that AI will render creative jobs obsolete, both inside and outside the art establishment. For an insider’s perspective on the tech-art controversy, we reached out to Zhang Huan and Xu Bing, two of the most renowned Chinese artists working today. Hailing from the avant-garde art scene of the ’80s and ’90s, both Zhang and Xu know what it takes to create something boundary-pushing and thought-provoking. Over the years they’ve become global art icons, and each in their own way, have incorporated emerging technology into their work. But what causes them to look toward technology for continued inspiration? And do they think, like some do, that a reign of machines will ultimately supplant human ingenuity? undefined

Zhang Huan

Rebellion and experimentation have always been at the core of Zhang’s work, but in the early days, he himself was the test subject. “In the ’80s in Beijing, I used my body to make art,” he says. “I was commenting on the political and social environment of the time.” His most daring performances involved self-inflicted punishments to shock his audiences and draw attention to the harsh living conditions of the poor in China. In his 1994 12m², Zhang sat still inside a filthy public toilet with his naked body covered in honey and fish oil. Swarms of flies feasted on him while he maintained a Zen-like demeanor. That same year, he pushed his limits even further with 65KG, in which Zhang was suspended from the ceiling by chains, once again naked, as blood was drained from his body. The performance lasted a whopping forty minutes. Zhang uses a broad spectrum of media, ranging from incense ash to steel, wood, and even cow skin, to create his paintings and sculptures, or as elements of his performance art. In 2002 he delivered yet another iconic performance, walking down Fifth Avenue and releasing white doves while wearing a suit fashioned from chunks of meat. (Mind you, this was eight years before Lady Gaga wore her meat dress to the MTV Video Music Awards.) The performance, titled My New York, drew inspiration from Tibetan sky burials, a funeral practice in which the bodies of the deceased are dismembered and offered to vultures. Buddhist philosophy and general history are recurring themes in Zhang’s work; recently he’s been researching ancient oracle bone inscriptions dating from the Shang Dynasty. Still, he’s no technophobe. “I’m someone who likes to experiment with brand new mediums and materials,” he says, before adding that he embraces emerging technologies, and is “particularly sensitive to the newest research.” In 2022 Zhang announced his first NFT project, a trilogy of works created in collaboration with Web3 platform EchoX. “When I started doing NFTs, I reflected: what should my first NFT be? Because I am a performance artist, I felt like I had to do something interactive,” he says. In The Celestial Burial of an Artist, the second piece in the trilogy, virtual interactivity meets ancient Buddhist rituals. The piece pays homage to My New York, replicating his iconic image in the meat suit with a digital avatar built from hundreds of pixelated, meat-suit-clad miniatures. Over two thousand participants customized these small pieces during an interactive, gamified art session. Screenshot from Pace Gallery, displaying NFT works from Zhang Huan The game was like a digital version of the Tibetan burial tradition: players could choose to reclaim the sections that composed Zhang’s avatar, and mint them into NFTs — like vultures extracting parts from a dead body. In a similar vein, Zhang is interested in the Metaverse, and the possibility of eternal existence in the digital realm. He’s been developing the concept of a digital graveyard where people can buy their very own virtual graves. “I spent over two years researching and understanding this field, how to combine the real and virtual worlds,” he says. “This can only be achieved if the right technology is there to support it.” As for the dangers of mixing technology and art, Zhang believes it’s really up to us to make the best of it. “Technology entirely depends on how you use it. If you use it well, it pushes people in the right direction; if you don’t, then it hampers us,” he says. Zhang doesn’t think AI can replace humans. He sees the technology for what it is: a combination of models that summarize what they’ve been shown in order to create new content that resembles the original source material. “Right now AI can only imitate humans, it doesn’t innovate. It just takes all the historical data it can collect and expresses them. If AI can truly innovate, then I haven’t seen it happening yet,” he says. To him, at least for now, creativity seems to still belong solely to humans. However, Zhang has some harsh criticism about the way things are going online, and about the quality of the creative output he sees on social media, especially in China. “If you want to be known by the general public in China, then you have to be a viral sensation on Douyin [domestic TikTok] and get a lot of traffic and followers. Then a lot of people will know you, but what’s the goal?” he shrugs. He thinks it’s pointless to be a crowd-pleaser, feeding netizens trivial and predictable content. “I think we have to change the system. Instead of giving the audience exactly what they like, we have to lead them in a direction they don’t know,” Zhang says. Case in point: a short video explainer that highlights the bizarre nature of 12m² has recently gone viral on TikTok with an inflammatory title: “The most disgusting performance artwork ever.” Zhang has always taken risks. The public wasn’t always sympathetic to his work, and even the art world saw him as an eccentric outsider at first. Still, his ethos was always about finding his own space to express himself in innovative ways, and that’s why his performances continue to shock almost thirty years later. After all, replicating something that was made before is the role of algorithms. To really stand out from machines, humans need to innovate. “Every field has mediocre and outstanding people. If you are a designer and you make what is popular and everyone else is doing, then you are not a good designer,” he says. “Great designers and great artists are supposed to make something new, something that has the ability to shape the present and the future, and influence other artists, scientists, and politicians,” he adds. “Only what passes the test of history is art.”

Xu Bing

Just as Zhang intended to shock, Xu wanted to bewilder. He did so by meticulously subverting language, notably Chinese calligraphy. He presented it in disturbing ways, famously printing it on the bodies of copulating pigs. In part, his work reflects what he observed during the years of Mao, like the official simplification of Chinese characters in the late ’50s, and the appropriation of language for slogans and pieces of political ideology. undefined
Characteristic fake characters of Xu Bing
Perhaps his most memorable work to date is Book from The Sky. Conceived between 1987 and 1991, this massive installation contains scrolls and books with over four thousand fake Chinese characters, all hand-printed by himself and made to look as real as possible. The visual result is something solemn, like a shrine or a library of valuable manuscripts — but audiences are left hanging when they realize it’s all nonsense. Later, Xu inverted the concept with Square Word Calligraphy, a work of characters that look like traditional Chinese calligraphy but are, in reality, English words. This time, the viewer feels a sense of relief when they realize these non-existent characters actually hold meaning. Interestingly, this piece came to life at a moment when China was opening up to the world. In 2003 he went further with yet another concept: Book from the Ground, a work that uses the language of icons to form a narrative that people from all backgrounds can read — as long as they are familiar with modern life, that is. Like Zhang, Xu believes artists need to find innovative ways to express themselves. If technology can help with that, even better. Book from the Ground, for instance, was made using computer software that was later patented and offered to the public, who were then able to create entirely new narratives using the icons. Xu has been incorporating tech into his work since the late ’90s. He went as far as working with a space rocket company to illustrate the relationship between humans and outer space. This project failed, in part because of technical issues, but it prompted him to investigate even further into the meeting point of art and technology. In 2022, he attached a selfie stick and a screen display to an inactive satellite. The data exchanged between the satellite and Earth generates an animation on the screen, while the selfie stick streams it to us in real time. This is an ongoing project which poses challenges of its own, but it’s definitely the first animation ever created in space. Xu first used AI as a medium in 2017 in Artificial Intelligence Infinite Film (AI-IF). He worked closely with experts to develop an AI system into which the public could input sentences, which would then create a real-time movie of any desired genre, with any desired plot. An algorithm uses existing footage to produce the film, and creates dialogues based on language models, therefore eliminating the need for directors, scriptwriters, actors, or anyone else that would take part in a traditional production process. “We started [experimenting with AI] pretty early, around five years ago. Back then we used GPT-2 to make our film. After that, I haven’t followed much, but now that GPT-3.5 and 4 are out and everybody is talking about it, I look back and I feel that, for being made under that time’s conditions, the film project is not bad at all. I slowly realized the value of this thing,” he says. Xu is fully aware that AI’s processing capability completely outpaces that of a human brain. “Back then in the 80s, we didn’t have AI. If we did, then I would have used it to make Book From the Sky. Instead, I kept copying and copying, and only then the result came out,” Xu says. It took him two years to design, carve, and screen print all the characters that compose his iconic installation. With AI, this could have been a matter of minutes, or even seconds. “The more AI technology develops, the more it gives me space and time to reflect,” he says. “Before, being an artist meant you were very good at painting. Now, art and technical skills are no longer tightly linked.” “If art is a competition with AI, sooner or later you’ll lose,” he adds nonchalantly, pointing to the difference between technical artistry and creative vision. Xu is an enthusiast when it comes to AI because he sees it as an enabler, not as a competitor. AI can help artists overcome constraints and achieve results that are not humanly possible, and Xu believes it’s up to the artists themselves to find their place in this brave new world. “I’ve never loved art more and, in the future, as AI develops, humanity will need art even more,” he says. undefined
View from the Window at Le Gras 1826 or 1827, believed to be the earliest surviving camera photograph. Original (left), Enhanced (right)
When photography appeared in the 1800s, many painters fell into despair. It’s easy to understand why — their work was laborious. They took a long time to depict what they were seeing, while it took a split second for a camera to capture it in detail. They thought their art was doomed. But painting has not disappeared. It has instead expanded, with artists finding new ways to enchant the eye, and daring to paint things we can’t see in stylized, multidimensional, and abstract forms. Photography itself became an art form, sometimes an abstract one, and even hyper-realistic painting thrived, replicating exactly what you see in a photograph. In the long run, the invention of photography prompted art to become more elaborate and diverse than ever. Only time will tell what surprises are waiting for art in the age of AI. As for Xu, he continues to embrace it as a positive force. He’s working on a new AI project to create the longest film in human history, one that will loop endlessly without repeating itself — and he’s resolute in his opinion, “AI as a tool can liberate humanity.” Images and videos via Zhang Huan, Xu Bing, Haedi Yue, Jason M. Allen, Rong Rong, Meikowkmeomi Othumddroa, Johnnychiwa

Messi’s Livestream Appearance in China Draws More Than 2.5 Million Viewers

This article was originally published by TechNode. It has been edited and re-posted here with permission.


On Wednesday afternoon, Lionel Messi captivated an audience of more than 2.5 million viewers during a 20-minute-long livestream on Taobao Live platform, owned by Chinese ecommerce giant Alibaba.


The event was hosted by ecommerce influencer Li Xuanzhuo and He Wei, a football commentator from China’s state broadcaster. Li made it clear that any commercial elements that appear during Messi’s presence in the live stream, including those that appear after Messi leaves, are unrelated to Messi.


The soccer star only stayed around ten minutes during the entire livestreaming session. The brief appearance saw Messi share his feelings about his visit to China, his football career, and future plans. Toward the end of the conversation, the hosts presented Messi with zongzi, sticky rice dumplings traditionally enjoyed during the Dragon Boat Festival.


Messi also extended his wishes to the watching fans for a “peaceful and healthy Dragon Boat Festival” in Mandarin Chinese, ahead of the three-day traditional holiday commencing on June 22.


Cover image via Taobao

Art of Dabeiyuzhou: Buddhist Themes and Cybernetic Visuals

China’s Digital Renaissance is a series exploring new currents in Chinese contemporary art, created in partnership with East West Bank. This article centers on the work of Dabeiyuzhou, an emerging artist whose work spans both futuristic technology and Chinese tradition.


Dabeiyuzhou, whose real name is Lin Kunhao, is a fast-rising figure in the world of digital art. The Xiamen-based artist is known for his NFT productions that explore intersections of technology, art, and culture – his fusion of futuristic motifs with Chinese tradition has earned him the nickname ‘Oriental Cyborg.’


“I think it’s the artist’s responsibility to explore all the possibilities of art, including the possibilities within the medium itself,” Dabeiyuzhou tells RADII.

Dabeiyuzhou was born in Fujian province on the southeastern coast of China, a region known as a bit of a religious melting pot. He admits that the traditional practices of Buddhism played a big role in his early life at home, where his mother was a pious Buddhist.


That influence is present in his moniker — which is a reference to the famous ‘Great Compassion Mantra’ — as well as in some of his most recognized works featuring AI-generated Buddhas.


However, Dabeiyuzhou’s career didn’t start with AI tools. His first entry points were through video game art and jade carving, before he moved back to Fujian province and transitioned into digital art.

Now his unique style is catching on with global audiences. His work bridges a gap between tradition and technology, blending Buddhist motifs with cybernetic visuals, and ultimately envisioning a future of complete human-computer synergy.


“Everything created on a computer is built on a common language of 1s and 0s,” he says. “Technology is the most effective way to tear down the ‘Tower of Babel’ that separates us.”


dabeiyuzhou parallelism futurism


Dabeiyuzhou created his Parallel Futurism series between 2015 and 2018. The project represents an early effort to combine futuristic and spiritual imagery – amidst dizzying advancements in AI, Dabeiyuzhou wanted to explore the ‘god-like,’ omniscient nature of the technology.


The series’ Chinese name, Fangfu Weilai, is a double entendre. As Dabeiyuzhou describes, it can mean both “similar to the future” and “mimicking Buddhas in the future” (mofang foxiang 模仿佛像).


virtual butterfly dabeiyuzhou


His iconic Virtual Butterfly Project, on the other hand, is steeped in Daoist philosophy.


Since 2018, Dabeiyuzhou has created more than 10 million virtual butterflies. He created the butterflies using generative adversarial networks and AI algorithms, and from there, hand-picked 3 million of them, each with a totally unique color and pattern.


“Butterflies hold special significance in Chinese culture,” he says, referencing the famous dream of classical Daoist philosopher Zhuangzi. “They’re symbols of dreams, and of fantasy.”


He tells us that he usually gives away a digital butterfly whenever he does an exhibition or speech, and gifts one to RADII as we wrap up our interview.


dabeiyuzhou

Screenshot via Dabeiyuzhou’s website


In 2019, Dabeiyuzhou started to create the Text Gene Project, combining elements across text, image, and human voice interpretation.


The series has made headlines, with one piece, A Poetic Beach, being sold through Sotheby’s Metaverse auction ‘Natively Digital 1.2’ for $140,000. Dabeiyuzhou made waves as the first Chinese digital artist to sell a work at the auction.


To create the project, he assembled a massive text gene library. The library contains words pulled from a wide spread of books, as well as those submitted by visitors to Dabeiyuzhou’s website.


An AI algorithm randomly selects words from the library, and arranges them into new sentences to form modern Chinese poetry. Dabeiyuzhou picks his favorites from the newly-composed sentences, and uses them to compose a sonnet.


That human presence is still key. While Dabeiyuzhou appreciates the liberation that AI tools can offer, he believes human artistry can’t be replaced.


“AI doesn’t give itself orders, just yet,” Dabeiyuzhou tells RADII. “I still believe it’s just a tool to liberate creativity and labor.”


All images courtesy of Dabeiyuzhou