Last week in Shanghai marked the second time in Hermès’ history that a show took place outside of France. The first time was a womenswear collection held in NYC. That show, titled “The Second Chapter,” symbolized new life and optimism, featuring timeless pieces in Hermès’ signature earth-toned palette against the Manhattan skyline. 

So it’s no surprise that designer Nadège Vanhée chose Shanghai as the newest backdrop for Hermès’ global vision, given the city’s cultural and commercial significance. Swapping the views of New York’s East River for Shanghai’s Huangpu River, Hermès constructed a pavilion-like structure glowing in neon orange and red. As models walked down the runway, modular floor-to-ceiling screen doors swung open to reveal the North Bund Bay skyline—a modern homage to screen doors from traditional Chinese architecture.

The Autumn/Winter 2025 womenswear collection, “Au Galop!,” is a study in the contrast between the toughness and sensuality of metropolitan women. The looks are anchored by luxurious materials like leather and fur, layered with flowing coats and sturdy riding boots. The collection’s elegance is balanced with touches of urban practicality, featuring elements like leather baseball caps, water bottle slings, headphones around the neck, and small crossbody bags.

Calling back to the collection’s theme, equestrianism lies at the center of Nadège Vanhée’s vision. The color palette draws from classic equestrian tones—chestnut brown, burgundy, navy, and muted reds and purples. The pieces are woven together by the recurring motif of braided manes and saddle-stitched leather, often found on the horses themselves, this time appearing on the runway models. 

Hermès’ latest collection demonstrates its ongoing effort in globalization, and Shanghai is no doubt a fitting stage. Hermès crafted a runway that combines Eastern aesthetics with the brand’s French heritage while honoring both tradition and innovation. In recent years, Hermès has deepened its footprint in China through various store expansions, pop-up shops, and exhibitions. With “Au Galop!,” the Maison has reaffirmed its commitment to the Chinese market, as well as its place at the crossroads of culture and high fashion.

Cover image via Hermès.