Runway Gimmicks: Highlights from Shanghai Fashion Week 2023

From Coperni’s spray-on dress to Schiaparelli’s animal heads, the global fashion community has experienced a rising tide of ‘runway gimmicks’ during this year’s various global fashion weeks, including the recently concluded 2023 Autumn/Winter Shanghai Fashion Week.


In an increasingly saturated attention economy, where competition for audience engagement is fierce, fashion brands are constantly innovating to capture attention. Though fashion is undoubtedly an art form, it’s also a business, and designers are searching for fresh and creative ways to stand out from the crowd.


And now that Shanghai has finally come out of pandemic mode, RADII was glad to see fashion lovers and show-goers returning to the latest Shanghai Fashion Week in full force with dynamic and energetic styles. In the words below, we explore some of the most unconventional runway highlights from the event, which ran from March 23 to 30. Get inspired, fashion enthusiasts!

1. Fabric Porn

Our favorite gimmick from the recent edition of Shanghai Fashion Week comes from Fabric Porn, a fashion label founded in Shanghai in 2019. The brand’s founder and designer, Zhao Chenxi, opened the show on March 26 by riding a bicycle down the runway.


Fabric Porn

Zhao’s label frequently blends Western influences with traditional Chinese cultural elements. Image via Xiaohongshu


His T-shirt proudly sported the words ‘certificate maker’ alongside a phone number, bringing viewers back to the time before the internet when people had to seek out skilled craftsmen to create official documents instead of using free online design software. From there, increasingly bizarre antics followed suit.


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Image courtesy of Graeme Kennedy


The show was themed around ‘ganji’ (赶集), a local gathering similar to a farmer’s market in the West but with a more down-to-earth style. In the past, when the economy was underdeveloped, locals regularly gathered to trade commodities at these events.


Therefore, it was not a surprise to see one model walk out holding a dog wearing a brocade jacket while another passed out eggs from a woven basket. The show’s final moments featured models wearing long leather jackets and military hats handing cigarettes to audience members.


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A model passes out eggs during the fashion showcase, a nod to the show’s theme. Image via Xiaohongshu


As a brand dedicated to showcasing the unique aspects of Chinese aesthetics and traditional folk customs, Fabric Porn presented outfits that combined lambswool, faux mink fur, and printed cotton fabrics in the style of Northeast China.


“This brand is so fun! It showcased Chinese people’s cultural confidence and humor!” reads the top comment under a post on Xiaohongshu, a Chinese social media platform similar to Instagram.

2. Hazzys

(Hu)man’s best friend was in the spotlight during the recently wrapped-up Shanghai Fashion Week, when Hazzys, a Korean casual wear brand, had models walk down the runway accompanied by a furry friend wearing matching accessories on March 23.


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A model struts down the runway with a furry companion. Image via Xiaohongshu


While exciting and seemingly novel, the use of canines on the catwalk was not new for Hazzys: In 2020, the brand received considerable attention for the same show concept.


Netizens on Xiaohongshu complimented the cuteness of the animals and noted how much they livened up the atmosphere.

3. Kensun

Among the other creative gimmicks at the fashion week, the collaboration between Kensun, a Shenzhen-based ‘neo-Chinese style’ brand, and Toni&Guy, a British upscale hair salon chain, stood out for turning the typical runway show on its head.


Moments typically kept behind the scenes were brought center stage in this collaboration, where models got fresh cuts and dyes on the runway.


Kensun x Toni and Guy

Models are receiving final hair touch-ups during Kensun x Toni&Guy. Image courtesy of Mihaly Giber


Though fashion lovers on various corners of the internet have debated the purpose of runway gimmicks and whether they detract from or add to shows, Chinese netizens have embraced this aspect of fashion events.


Cover image via VCG

10 Hot New Music Releases to Amp up Your April

New Music is a monthly RADII column that looks at new Chinese music spanning hip hop to folk to modern experimental, and everything in between. This month, we introduce you to new offerings from Hualun, Endless White, Shi Xinwenyue, and more! Spring is a time for renewal, growth, and new beginnings. Despite the unpredictable weather, this is a season that’s full of hope. But if you do not feel that energy, these 10 new Chinese music releases might be able to put you in the right mood.

1. Sleep Leaps (碎梦飞跃) — 你不想被困在这里 (You Don’t Want to Be Stuck Here)

One of the most exciting acts to hit the scene in some time, Sleep Leaps is the latest addition to Chengdu’s robust dream pop scene — following acts like Sinkers and Sound & Fury with a jangle-filled and melodically charged sound that’s spry, wistful, and charming as all hell. Reverb-soaked, nostalgia-tingling, and anchored by its lead’s starry-eyes vocals and robust instrumentation, their take on young adulthood feels both lived-in and sincere, basking in the afterglow of adolescence with one eye on the road ahead.

2. EndlessWhite (白百) — Changeless (世界是拉不直的问号)

The Xi’an shoegaze quartet Endless White, who revels in jangly guitar work, wispy vocals, and sublime walls of sound, haven’t so much revamped their sound as shook free of the genre’s shackles. The band’s latest effort is as confident as it is ambitious, a dream pop opus that pushes their sound into the exciting new electro-pop territory while pushing Zhang Wanyi’s vocals to the forefront. From the potent synth pop pleasures of ‘Falling in a Vaccum’ to the almost gothic industrial buzz of ‘Hush’ — the band sounds larger than ever, swimming in the more propulsive aspects of ’80s electronica amongst its heavier shoegaze aesthetics. Giant swings like this usually don’t work, but for Endless White, the possibilities are endless.

3. Mofei (莫非乐队) — Timestamp

Established post-rock veterans out of Shanghai, Mofei returns with their latest, Timestamp, which intends to chronicle the bewildering, frustrating, and powerful moments over the past seven years. Grounded, raw, and sincere above all else, Mofei finds solace in both the rollicking peaks and the soothing valleys of the genre. While there’s nothing particularly groundbreaking on display here, there’s an undeniable gusto and humanity within their lengthy compositions, eliciting emotions from listeners as they “fight against life with the only weapon they have — music.”

4. thruoutin — Ghost Lineage

Beijing-based electronic producer and multi-instrumentalist thruoutin — known for his dizzying and woozy “weaving of experimental and club music, with nods to ambient, gqom, field recordings, and drone” — returns with his latest effort Ghost Lineage. Released with New Noise, this new installment is patient, more delicate, and moodier than his previous efforts. thruoutin’s latest has a trance-like pull to its sonic world. Dewy in its textures and oozing with globe-trotting atmospheric asides as its slowed-down BPMs take over, those global aesthetics are further enhanced with the help of some top-notch musicians, including JustSyd (vocals), He Kairan (bawu, kaval, kanjira, and mouth harp) and Dong Yang (frame drum), creating a hazy and fluid transnational sound.

5. gogoj (盛洁) — Review

The ever-prolific Sheng Jie (aka gogoj) — known for her layered, intricate, and exploratory string-based drones — delivered a sober and stark reminder of the last few years in China with her latest Review, released with U.K. imprint DustyBallz. Ditching her more cerebral approach to sounds and composition, Sheng Jie tackles the “emotional exhaustion” of our recent past with acute psychological and memoir-esque detachment, melding together field recordings of the mundanely abrasive with sparse, almost afflicted instrumentations of guitar, cello, and an analog synthesizer. Sometimes beguiling, sometimes distressing, Review is a fascinating artifact from a time we won’t soon forget.

6. Baoerjin (宝尔金) — Ra ash (太阳灰)

Seasoned producer and sound artist Baoerjin, whose long history of collaborations and compositions has made him one of Shanghai’s most prolific performers, puts his multi-disciplinary talents to use on his debut Ra ash, released with Trans MiB. Hitting that sweet spot between experimental exploration and open-bodied romanticism, the soundscapes spread out across the album are richly dense and pictorial, organic to the senses, and full of imaginative zest. Baoerjin’s keen perception extends to how he brings in an assortment of musical mercenaries, from Aming to Zhang Meng, seamlessly adding to the expansive sonic wonders at hand.

7. Lost Memory Machine — Vanilla Sky

Melancholic yet bursting with a vibrantly lit and dreamy aesthetic, the latest from the Beijing duo Lost Memory Machine, Vanilla Sky, is a deftly crafted electro-indie pop album. Consisting of David Carey (of Nocturnes) and singer-songwriter Soli Ling, their sound is a delicately weaved tapestry of electronica, slick yet ethereal guitar chords, and airy vocals that sway alongside its inviting and serene rhythms. A lucid audial daydream, Lost Memory Machine has a weightless quality to it — one that’s easy to get swept up in.

8. Return to Sender — Quartet

A hefty offering of emotionally fraught core music, Shanghai’s Return to Sender come out swinging on their latest LP Quartet. Hoping to “unlock the knot in your heart and help you move through the turbid current,” the post-hardcore band taps into the muscular and tender aspects of core music with whiplash-inducing flair, injecting their sound with shades of post-rock, R&B, emo pop, and then some. One moment you’re taken aback by the effective use of auto-tune, and the next, you’re being tossed up against the wall by razor-sharp guitar riffs and guttural screams. It might just touch a chord.

9. Hualun (花伦) — Scorch Off towards the Utopia

Post-rock veterans turned ambient soundscapers, Hualun, based initially out of Wuhan, have been quite prolific over the past few years, releasing new material with various labels across the globe as well as soundtracking high-profile films and documentaries, including An Elephant Sitting Still (大象席地而坐, 2018) and Love in the Buff (春娇与志明, 2012). Their latest offering, Tempus, will drop at the end of the month with BiE Records. Their first single, ‘Scorch Off towards the Utopia,’ gets an appropriate trip MV courtesy of Huang Yihong, utilizing A.I. to trigger ‘secondary synthesis’ and superimpose images and animals over live action shots, making the video disorienting, beautiful, and exploratory much like the band’s shape-shifting sound.

10. Xinwenyue Shi (施鑫文月) — Hustler Wang, A Li Li (王跑跑,阿里里)

Rapper and singer-songwriter Xinwenyue Shi muses on the seemingly laid-back yet innovative hustler lifestyle of Chengdu on his latest track ‘Hustler Wang, A Li Li’ — a supple piece of breezy hip hop that’s equally smooth and tender. The rising bilingual rapper, who hails from Chengdu but was educated in America, brings and celebrates both the cultural hotbed that is Chengdu while mirroring the star’s upbringing. Coupled with the artist’s astutely observational humor, and a sly fusion of synthesizers and vinyl sampling, the song puts Xinwenyue Shi on the map alongside hip hop figures like J-Fever and P08.
Cover image via Zhuohan Shao

PHOTOS: 4 Highlight Shows From Shanghai Fashion Week 2023

I guess I am the last person who should be shooting, thinking, and writing about fashion, especially dressed head-to-toe in Uniqlo basics. But after attending the 2023 Autumn/Winter Shanghai Fashion Week, I realized that almost everyone is shooting from the hip when it comes to fashion. As a professional photographer, I couldn’t resist documenting through my lens.


Below are some highlights of the event, as snapped by yours truly.

1. Nomanoman

My first show was Nomanoman, a young local brand with an avant-garde edge. It wasn’t what I expected, but the frantic 20-minute parade of models fine-tuning their walks was captivating.


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shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


What really caught my eye was the audience — a mix of buyers and trendsetters trying to look effortlessly chic.


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shanghai fashion week 2023

2. Hemu

The Hemu showcase was next, featuring a fresh and approachable Chinese fashion brand with a take on Tibetan chic.


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shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


This show exemplified the trend of young Chinese nationals exploring rare and exotic corners of their political borders, as well as the rich cultural diversity within the country.


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3. Fabric Porn

The standout show for me came from Fabric Porn, complete with nostalgia and whimsical cultural hooks.


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shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


Overall, the show provided an unconventional and sensational combination of Chinese and Western aesthetics.

4. Social Work

My final show was Social Work at Labelhood, which featured primarily Western models — a rarity during the week. A fashion designer told me, “I booked my models too late; this was all that was left.”


It’s a departure from the trend of using white models to make a brand look premium or imported, signaling a shift away from the West as a trendsetter in the industry.


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


shanghai fashion week 2023


Ultimately, my experience at Shanghai Fashion Week challenged my preconceptions about the industry and left me with a newfound appreciation for the diverse perspectives and innovative approaches showcased on the runway.


All images via the author

Japanese Film ‘Suzume’ Challenges Hollywood at Chinese Box Offices

Last Friday, celebrated Japanese director and animator Makoto Shinkai’s latest animated film, Suzume no Tojimari, aka Suzume (铃芽之旅), made its record-breaking debut in Chinese theaters.


Just over the weekend, it made upwards of 365.5 million RMB (about 53 million USD). It’s well on the way to surpassing the record set by the current highest-grossing Japanese film in China, Shinkai’s 2016 anime Your Name, which made 78 million USD in its first two weeks.

Suzume is a fantasy adventure film about the titular Suzume, a high school girl, and a mysterious man named Sōto who must work together to close the world off from a dangerous alternate realm. It was released last November in Japan, becoming Shinkai’s most successful creation yet; the film’s worldwide release is set to begin on April 12.


Undoubtedly, the movie’s triumph in China can be attributed to Shinkai’s devoted Chinese fan base, who were captivated by his previous works, Your Name and Weathering with You.


“Makoto Shinkai’s classic Your Name is number one in my heart,” one netizen wrote, “Shinkai was my first anime love.”


a poster for suzume by makoto shinkai

The Chinese poster for Suzume. Image via IMDb


Suzume’s successful release in China comes after lackluster receptions for traditional Hollywood blockbusters, such as Marvel’s Black Panther: Wakanda Forever and Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania, both released in China in February this year.


Black Panther made only 15.6 million USD in China, while Ant-Man brought in 39 million USD, even though they were the first Marvel releases in the country since Spider-Man: Far From Home came out in 2019.


Even the much-anticipated James Cameron film Avatar: The Way of Water — a sequel to the highest-grossing movie of all time, which came out last December, made just 57.1 million USD on its opening weekend in China.


The success of Suzume, then, marks a potential turning point for the foreign movie market in China, which Hollywood has traditionally dominated.

To connect with his fans in China, Shinkai visited Beijing and Shanghai as part of a publicity tour in mid-March, making him reportedly the first foreign creative to officially visit the country since the Covid-19 pandemic began.


During his time in China, he even toted around a small yellow chair — representing Sōto, who gets turned into a chair by a mysterious cat in the film.


makoto shinkai at peking university

Shinkai visiting Peking University on March 17. Image via his tweet


So far, Suzume has received more than 160,000 reviews on the Chinese movie review platform Douban, where it has an average rating of 7.4/10. Though the rating is lower than the 8.5/10 that Your Name boasts, it is much better than Black Panther 2’s 5.4/10.


It’s important to note that foreign film releases are heavily limited in China. International studios trying to get their movies shown in China have two options: a ‘revenue-share’ agreement, meaning the studios behind the film receive a portion of box office revenue, or a ‘flat fee’ agreement, in which a Chinese studio or firm buys out the rights for distribution.


However, only 34 foreign movies are allowed a revenue share each year, and that’s if they get past the country’s film regulators.

The recent decline in the popularity of Hollywood film releases and the mainstream fervor over Suzume may change the entire landscape for foreign films in China.


As Chinese entertainment site Yu Li, which can be translated to ‘entertainment theory,’ wrote on Weibo, “If Suzume can finally reach the box office range of 600 million to 1 billion RMB, it will definitely have a big impact on the foreign film import market in the future, and studios may rush to buy Japanese films that have always been underestimated [in China].”


Cover image via VCG

Chinese Women’s Basketball Star Li Meng Busted for Affair With Coach

According to Chinese media outlets, the Chinese Basketball Association (CBA) is reportedly planning to suspend 28-year-old basketball star Li Meng from the national team for a year after online accusations of an affair between Li and Zhang Long, one of the coaches of the national women’s basketball team, caused a public uproar.


The CBA, which governs both the men’s and women’s national teams, also stated that Coach Zhang would be fired due to the scandal.


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Li at the 2022 FIBA Women’s World Cup. Image via VCG


The decision came after a Weibo user claiming to be Zhao Lei, the ex-wife of 45-year-old Zhang, exposed Zhang’s extramarital affair with Li on March 18.


The user claimed that the affair had led to the end of her marriage in August last year and that she was exposing it now because Zhang was not paying child support. She posted censored nude photos of Li as proof of the relationship.


The accusation has stirred up an online furor, mainly because Li is a high-profile player and a key figure in the Chinese women’s basketball team, which is governed by the CBA.


She has played for the Chinese national team since 2013. After leading China to an impressive second-place finish in the 2022 FIBA Women’s Basketball World Cup, she was even voted Player of the Year in Asia by fans.


At the beginning of this month, Li was called up to the national team training group in preparation for international basketball events happening later this year.

During this past regular season, Li played for the Sichuan Yuanda Merlot Basketball Club, which won the Women’s Chinese Basketball Association (WCBA) 2022-23 season championship in early March.


As noted by some sharp-eyed netizens, Zhang also coached the Sichuan team at the time.


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The Sichuan Yuanda club celebrating its WCBA championship win. Li is in front, and Zhang Long is circled. Image via Weibo


The public reaction to the affair and Li’s subsequent ban is mixed. Zhang has been almost universally condemned as a “bastard” or “scumbag,” though online discourse focuses more on Li because of her higher profile.


While not excusing the affair, some netizens think Zhang’s ex-wife is in the wrong for posting Li’s nudes. One Weibo user wrote, “[Zhao] isn’t going to be held accountable for posting someone else’s nude photos? Does privacy differ from person to person?”


Another, who called Zhao’s post a “patriarchal trick,” wrote, “When will women understand that men live so happy because they have low moral standards, yet our lives are so hard because they tie us down with morals.”


However, many think the backlash towards Li and her one-year suspension is justified.


“If you support Li Meng,” one Weibo user wrote, “I hope a mistress upends your marriage.”


A Baidu blog post in support of the suspension reads, “[The ban] is not only a warning to [Li] personally but also a necessary decision to maintain the discipline of the entire national team and the image of the country.”


li meng signing announcement with washington mystics

Li has been signed to the WNBA’s Washington Mystics. Image via Weibo


Li, however, was already planning to leave the WCBA. Before news broke of her affair, on March 13, the American professional basketball team Washington Mystics announced that they had signed Li.


This is the second big scandal to rock the CBA this year. In February, the Xinjiang Guanghui Flying Tigers left the men’s league over a contract dispute with their star player Zhou Qi. However, on March 16, the team announced they would return to the CBA for this season.


Cover image via VCG

Chinese Buzzword ‘Kong Yiji Mindset’ Sparks Debate Among College Grads

“Education should not shackle us,” claimed a college graduate identified only as Ms. Huang in a recent segment on BRTV, a Chinese state-owned network in Beijing.


Four years after graduating from the prestigious Zhengzhou University with a degree in international economics and trade, Huang made a surprising decision last August and started a part-waste collection, part-scrap yard business as she grew bored with moving from one job to another and the repetitive nature of office life.


Instead of rushing to a cubicle in one of the city’s high-rises every morning, she would go to customers’ apartments to pick up recyclable garbage, from cardboard boxes and plastic bottles to old televisions and washing machines.


The waste collector profession has long existed in China but has always been considered a blue-collar job done primarily by people without an education or professional training.


ms. huan in a brtv interview

Screenshot from BRTV’s segment where Huang claims to have achieved financial independence through her trash collection business. Image via BRTV


Her statement was an apparent rebuttal to the so-called ‘Kong Yiji mindset’ (孔乙己文学), a term used to refer to college graduates who consider themselves above manual labor.


The new term is taken from a 1919 short story by Lu Xun, one of the most influential figures in modern Chinese literature, about a self-important scholar named Kong Yiji.


In mid-March, the story returned to the internet’s collective imagination after one person wrote, “Education is not a stepping stone, but a high platform that I can’t get off, and it’s also a long gown (a type of clothing worn mostly by scholars or government officials during Qing Dynasty) that Kong Yiji can’t take off.”


huang collecting trash

Huang collecting trash. Image via BRTV


To Huang, though, there are benefits to getting off the “high platform” of education. “So far, my monthly income can exceed the five-figure mark,” she said during the segment.


That’s upwards of 10,000 RMB (about 1,450 USD), a figure higher than China’s average monthly income of 1,393 USD as of 2021.


The near-simultaneous discourse around trash collection and the ‘Kong Yiji mindset’ have prompted comparisons, concerns, and a completely new iteration of the larger debate over work culture in China.

The ‘Kong Yiji Mindset’

In Lu Xun’s story, Kong Yiji is a self-important scholar who gets his legs broken after stealing books. Both ridiculous and tragic, Kong has a futile fixation on the past.


Set a few years after the fall of the Qing Dynasty, the story starts with him being ridiculed by the working-class customers in the tavern he frequents for continuing to wear his long scholar’s gown, even though he never passed the imperial exam that could have landed him a decent job back in the feudal days.


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A drawing of Kong Yiji. Image via Xiaohongshu


As The Paper, a Chinese media company based in Shanghai, writes, “[Kong Yiji] would rather steal than do what he considers a menial job just to make money… [This is relatable] in the eyes of some, [who think] their academic qualifications didn’t lead to the job they wanted or deserved.”


The related term, ‘Kong Yiji mindset,’ refers to those who see Kong in themselves as they face the pressures of a job market that can’t keep up with the record-breaking number of college graduates.


Last year, less than half of college students set to graduate in 2022 had received job offers by mid-April; meanwhile, the unemployment rate for all youths aged 16-24 last summer was a staggering 19.9%.


Kong is a sympathetic figure to some recent college graduates whose reality is not living up to expectations.

Rejecting Kong Yiji

Huang, though, represents the opposite of the ‘Kong Yiji mindset.’ In the interview, she said, “I was scared of being looked down upon, but once I got to a certain level of cognition, I realized that wasn’t important. We shouldn’t let our education levels shackle us.”


Many comments under a repost of the BRTV segment on Weibo, China’s top microblogging platform, are variations of “this woman is amazing,” reflecting a generally positive response to Huang’s work.


huang collecting trash

Another clip of Huang collecting trash. Image via BRTV


In some respects, Huang’s embrace of trash collection is similar to Chinese youths’ recent romanticization of the security guard profession. Both are related to the counter-cultural ‘lying flat’ trend that began to sweep China in 2021, wherein younger workers are deciding to opt out of the rat race.


The difference, though, as education scholar Xiong Bingqi points out in a Beijing News article, is that Huang’s work is “strictly a kind of entrepreneurship, which requires a lot of business management thinking, so it should not be simply equated with the stereotyped ‘rag recycling.’”


According to Xiong, Huang isn’t rejecting the whole rat race — just the traditional version of it.

A Structural Failure

Huang may not have many personal detractors, but some are worried about the societal failures that her story hints at.

One person wrote on Weibo, “If we only complete education but fail to create jobs that promote social progress, so that a large number of college graduates do jobs that only require a middle school degree, it means that there is a problem with the overall planning of our society.”


Other netizens are concerned that education itself may one day be seen as superfluous.


“When we were young, we were told to study hard, and when we grew up, we would become astronauts and scientists,” a Weibo user commented. “Now it has become study hard to screw screws, to be a cleaner, to collect junk. It’s not that I look down on those professions, every profession is respectable. But it is strange that the wind is blowing in this direction.”


In recent years, China has been pushing to expand vocational education as a means to solve the surplus of college graduates. However, the transition remains challenging as the stigma around blue-collar jobs lingers.


Cover image via Xiaohongshu